To Bageshwar … via Baijnath !


 Fish gathered at the temple ghat…

From Kausani we went to Baijinath – stayed the night at the Baijinath TRH. Main attraction of Baijinath is suppose to be the “Baijinath temple” but before anyone sees the temple – they straight heads towards the temple ghat … to see the fishes in the Gomti river. There’re many fishes (same kind) but small and big. I too was fascinated by seeing so many fishes – some of them were really big … thought of catching them and having them for dinner. We’re told that catching fish wasn’t allowed and they (temple authority) appoint guard to prevent theft at night. So all hopes shattered.



 ….main Lord Shiva temple.


 …. tourist click photos at the bank of river Gomti – local washing clothes in the emerald green water.

 Well lets get back to the temple – Baijinath temple complex (consist of many small and big temples) is situated just by the bank of river Gomti. The temple complex is a small area in itself but the time old architecture adds beauty and attraction to the temple. The main shiv temple – where prayer are still held – has a huge shiv-ling and a standing statue of Parvati made of grey schist – with 26 miniature images intricately curved around it. It was exquisitely beautiful.




In the evening – we went for a little walk along the main road in Garur valley…. ( Baijnath town is situated in Garur valley) –  saw woman working in their small land on the bank of Gomti river. Also saw found this bridge interesting as its quite old. We also met a man – who was very proud of its town and its development ie. the infrastructure and the construction of a new dam on Gomti river near the temple …. we didn’t think it was a good idea but they say that the dam won’t be more than 15 feet high. Actually didn’t quite understand – what would be the use of it !! Well let’s hope they don’t spoil the nature or its beauty.


…beautiful Bauhinia flower!

The TRH where we stayed had a huge orchid tree – ie. the Bauhinia tree – with small yellow with red dots flower … very different from the trees in Delhi or what we had seen at the Corbett fall gorge. They were flowering in october and on our trip from Deenapani to Sattal – we saw at places that the mountain side were covered with these orchid tree as we could see those yellow flower every where.


… jethu – looking out at the fog covered surrounding.

Next day in the early morning – all we could saw was fog and only fog. It created a misty and cool atmosphere. Later when the fog was lifted and one could saw the gorgeous blue sky and at far the snow drenched himalayan range – it was a site to adore. For us it was far more beautiful than what we saw at Kausani.


After breakfast – we headed towards Bageshware …



Bageshwar used to be a great market for exchanging Tibetan product between the Bhotiyas from Tibet and Almora merchants. All the way long we’re accompained by the Gomti river on our right. At Bageshwar – Gomti and Suraya river meet with each other … at that confluance – the ancient Bageshwar temple is situated.


….. entrance of the main temple of Bageshwar temple.

The temple itself was beautiful but there was no mention of its histroy -who built it and when it was built and so on. There was nothing – which was disappointing and we lost our interest in seeing it too … though there were idols and statue of God and Goddess displayed in a room – but one has to see it from outside and their details were written in Hindi only.


… the confluence of rivers Gomti and Sarayu – and at that point is the temple Bageshwar.

The two rivers that touches the temple ghat were very different from each other – Gomti’s water was somewhat darker (i guess a shade of dark green because at Baijinath it was light green) while Suraya’s was very clear and greenish blue in colour.


 Crystal clear greenish blue water of Gomti river.

The cook(Manoj) at Bageshwar TRH was a good fellow as i mentioned in the begining. As we arrived at the TRH – we asked him if we can get fresh water fish (river fish) in their local market. He told us we can – and so after visiting the temple and seeing the ghat – we headed towards the fish shop. The man at the shop told us if any fish arrives he will keep it for us. We may check at around 6 o’clock in the evening.


 Two young boys fishing in Gomti river.


 Jethu with Manoj looking down the hill at Manoj’s house.

In the meantime – we went to see another temple situated on a hilltop – it was dedicated to Goddess Chandika. The view from the top was beautiful … it was a normal temple not a ancient one like Bageshwar temple. There were 2 ways to get to the temple : one is to take the steps that starts at the foot of the hill and it’s the hard way. The other way was the easy one ie. the motor road way – not to say we took the motor road as we were short of time.


Peepal tree in the courtyard of the temple premises … also being worship.


These were the curving drawn on the steps leading to the temple.


Sarayu and Gomti river flowing as one.

Other side of the hill top….


One can see the Sarayu river meanding through the Bageshwar town.

Well that night we had fish with mustard seed paste – the fish was sweet and delicate while the mustard sauce was hot … so the combination was utterly delicious !

Next day – we had prepared our lunch for the road – which was raw papaya and potato curry with masoor “bori”. It was incrediblely very tasty – the flavour of raw papaya was excellent – the papaya was actually from the TRH garden. We also had fish with mustard sauce … which we only ate later that night at Deenapani.

After breakfast – we’re out for Deenapani. We went there last year too … Harish was there. We never thought – without certain people – staying and enjoying a place can be so different. We didn’t like it at Deenapani as we did the last time we visited the place. It was quite cold and windy this year.

We went to the “Saroda Moth” – as usual it was really nice. As “prasad” – they gave us “Malpua” which needless to say was very tasty. They also gave me a framed handmade painting. Later jethu told me – that some devotees might have given it to them – but its content ie. men and women drinking country made liquor and dancing – quite a famous scene from tribal rural Bengal. They couldn’t refuse the devotee and they couldn’t keep it either – so they gave it to me – i was only very happy to have it … though it’s not a very creative or artistic work.


The  not so famous painting …

 In the evening – we enjoyed a walk around the pine trees and watched a beautiful sun set. Stayed at Deenapani for 2 days … while staying there – went to visit Almora – just to shop – bought jaggery and peetha (white pumkin sweetmeat). It was a weekly off day – so nearly all the market shops were close. The roads were quiet and empty – so we get the chance to stop and look at some very old houses – appreciated their architecture and beauty. It was a very cold and windy day – so couldn’t spend as much time as we loved to.


Next morning – every place around was covered in thick fog … which was lovely to see.

On our way to Sattal – we passed Almora once again – saw the place where Swami Vivekanand ji fell unconsious while he was touring Almora – and a muslim fakir fed him a cucumber and prevented him from dying of hunger.


Sattal could have been very good – but we has bad luck – they had no roomheater. The placee was very cold – it was quite impossible to stay without one. The TRH couldn’t provide it – so finally we thought of buying it from the local market ie. Bowali market. That whole evening was spend on what to do and what not to – didn’t go to the lake. Next day – we’re to go back to Ramnagar. What happen was -we had a ticket for night train from Kathgodam. When we came to Ramnagar at the start of our trip – we travelled by the chair-car day train from Delhi. While staying at Bageshwar – we changed our night train ticket for day train ie chair-car – but no seat was available from Kathgodam … so no reservation. We got reservation from Ramnagar – so now we had to travel back to Ramnagar. From Sattal we left quite early in the morning as it was a bit long distance.


… a beautiful waterfall near Grampani – one can go down close to the fall but it was a long walk – we’re sort of time.


… that large grey rock looks like a large frog coming out of the river water.

On our way to Ramnagar – we drove through Nainital and Kaladaungri. The drive was no doubt very good – but the food at the daba where we ate lunch wasn’t good – later jethu felt little sick … though by that time we had reached Ramnagar TRH. In the evening – we went for a walk down the river side at the barrage. While sitting by the road side cemented pillar and watching the birds by the river side – we’re talking of the lesson we learnt at Sattal. We shouldn’t have compromise our stay there when they fail to provide us with basic neccesity. We should have told them to transfer us to Ramnagar TRH at that very moment … but we hesitated – thinking what they might think. Obviously we’re paying so we shouldn’t have compromise. We shouldn’t take decision emotionally but should be quite rational.

Next day morning – we took the train for Delhi. Reached home safely. There was a problem which gave us lot of trouble and sleepless night to jethu when we got back Delhi. Actually while staying at Dunagiri – it started from there – it was an allery or infection – we didn’t know but jethu’s most of the face ie. ears – down the side burn – around the nose – forehead – eye brows – was all red and itchy and had burning sensation. At Dunagiri – only the side-burn area was red – no burning or itching sensation. Slowly as the days passed by – it started to spread and became sever. We consulted our homeopathy doctor – no result. Consulted the Fortis hospital at Vasant Kunj – it reduced some how but not completely. When he went back to his home town Karimganj (Assam) – and consulted his regular physisian – those symptom had subsided. He is very much fine now …. and lets hope for the best for summer too. Well let me finish the ending part of our Ranikhet trip – i guess the whole trip was too lengthy and many stop over. In my opinion – no more mountain holiday – should take a break and go somewhere else … so next time lets see what happen and where it happens !


… pretty flower from Sattal TRH.